Once upon a time, hilsa was a daily routine for the common middle class. Hilsa was not beyond the reach of even the lowest class. Due to its geographical location, most of the world’s hilsa is produced in Bangladesh. The production of the fish has almost doubled in the last period. But in the course of the general rule of economy, the fact that the supply in the market increased and the price decreased in the case of hilsa did not happen. Rather, at the same time, prices have increased several times as well as production. And hilsa has departed from the table of the common middle class. The elite have created a monopoly over the fish.
Experts say that the growth of hilsa production has slowed down in recent years. At the same time, the fish has become a tool of diplomacy with neighboring countries. Also its reproductive management is not coordinated with the neighboring country. The market price of the fish has also increased by leaps and bounds in both the countries. Hilsa has gradually become scarce among the middle and lower classes.
According to the information of Directorate of Agricultural Marketing and Trading Corporation of Bangladesh (TCB), in December 2022, the price of hilsa per kg in the country’s market was Tk 500 to Tk 1,200 depending on the size. Last year on September 21, it increased from 600 to 1 thousand 300 taka. And in yesterday’s market, hilsa was sold for 800 to 1,600 taka per kg depending on the size. However, market traders say that it is more in some places of Dhaka.
Hilsa will not be exported to India – this decision was announced by the interim government after taking charge. Fisheries and Livestock Adviser Farida Akhtar said in response to a question from reporters at the secretariat on August 11, three days after taking charge, ‘We cannot send any hilsa to India. It is an expensive fish. We have seen that not only people in our country can eat hilsa. Because all are shipped to India. Those that remain, they have to be eaten at a high price.’
Currently, the government has withdrawn from that decision. The government has approved the export of 3000 tonnes of hilsa to India on the occasion of the upcoming Durga Puja. The Ministry of Commerce has issued an order in this regard yesterday. The order signed by the Deputy Secretary of the Ministry of Commerce, Sultana Akhtar, said, “On the occasion of the upcoming Durga Puja, the export of 3 (three) thousand tons of hilsa fish has been approved subject to the fulfillment of the conditions set against the application of various exporters.”
The order also said, ‘The concerned applicants are requested to apply to the Ministry of Commerce by 24 September at 12 noon. Applications will not be accepted after the mentioned date. Those who have already applied, do not need to apply again.
In this regard, advisor Farida Akhtar told the US media outlet Voice of America yesterday, ‘How much can be exported will depend on the supply in Bangladesh. Currently, the supply of hilsa fish is low. Fishing has also decreased. Again what is caught is going in different ways. As a result, it is a matter of seeing how it affects the country’s market.
According to the data of the Department of Fisheries, hilsa exports from Bangladesh to India in the financial year 2023-24 were around 665 tonnes. In the previous fiscal year (2022-23) it was 1 thousand 376 tons. Besides, 1 thousand 211 and 1 thousand 880 tons of hilsa were exported in 2021-22 fiscal year and 1 thousand 880 tons in 2020-21 fiscal year.
Market observers say that every year before Durga Puja, the price of hilsa increases in the country’s market. At the same time, the topic of hilsa export to India came into discussion. Although hilsa is used as a tool in the diplomacy of both countries, it does not benefit the common people of either country. Rather, the price of hilsa in the market started to increase as the discussion about this increased. At the same time, illegal hilsa smuggling also increased. In this year too, there have been reports of some shipments of hilsa being caught at the border.
When asked about this, a diplomat, on condition of anonymity, said that hilsa in India only appeals to Bengalis. As a result, Hilsa is not a significant tool as a diplomatic negotiation strategy between the two countries. The negative impact of using this product as a tool without any evaluation is felt by the people of Bangladesh. The price of hilsa increases in the country’s market. This year was no exception.
According to data from Kolkata-based Fish Importers Association (FIA), 99 percent of fish imported from Bangladesh enters India through the Petrapole port. These fish are sold in various wholesale markets of Kolkata. Mainly the most sold in Howrah market. Among those who regularly purchase fish from importers in Kolkata’s Howrah market, there is a class of traders known mainly as suppliers. They supply fish on demand to destinations in India where Bengalis are present. These areas include Hyderabad, Bangalore, Delhi and Mumbai.
FIA leaders say that 99 percent of the hilsa imported from Bangladesh is sold in Kolkata. Hilsa was sent in cartons from Calcutta to Bengali dominated areas. Hilsa is of no importance to the entire Indian population except the Bengalis. Non-Bengali Indians can never understand the special appeal of Hilsa, hence they have nothing to do with Hilsa. In addition, the amount of hilsa export from Bangladesh to India is approved; Usually less than actually exported.
In a letter sent to the Foreign Affairs Advisor of Bangladesh Touhid Hossain on September 9, the FIA urged to consider the approval of the export of hilsa from Bangladesh on the occasion of Durga Puja. The organization attached to the letter mentioned the amount of hilsa approved for export and exported from 2019 to 2023. According to the FIA letter, the last approved quantity of hilsa was exported from Bangladesh in 2019 and 2020. Of this, the amount of hilsa approved for export and exported in 2019 was 500 tons. In 2020, its amount was 1 thousand 850 tons. Then in September 2021, hilsa export was approved for 4 thousand 600 tons. In contrast, 1 thousand 200 tons are exported from Bangladesh. 1 thousand 300 tons of hilsa were exported against the approval of 2 thousand 900 tons at the same time of the next year. In September 2023, hilsa export was approved for 3 thousand 950 tons. 1 thousand 300 tons have been exported.
Last night, on behalf of Banik Barta, FIA Secretary Syed Anwar Maqsood was contacted on WhatsApp to talk about the export of hilsa from Bangladesh. He said, ‘A season of hilsa fish lasts for three to four months. We could not bring more than five thousand tons of hilsa to India in any season. My question – millions of tons of hilsa are grown in Bangladesh during the season. If five thousand tons of these come to India, how does the market price of Bangladesh increase? Hilsa should in no way be a diplomatic tool considering the total needs of the people of India. Rather, it increases the arrival of hilsa in a different way.’
He also said, ‘One big thing is that Bangladeshi people can buy only fish or any product with money, which the Bengalis from our side cannot. Indian Bengalis have to buy hilsa fish cut into pieces. A whole hilsa fish is never sold in the retail market in India. Bangladeshis are spending masters. People of West Bengal are not spending masters.’
In Bangladesh, the production growth of hilsa has also decreased. Experts blame encroachment of rivers, pollution, reduction of water flow in rivers and unplanned naval infrastructure for the slow growth of hilsa production. They say that hilsa comes to the mouth of the river to lay eggs. But in recent times, the movement of the fish in the river is hindered due to the influence of various infrastructures including encroachment and pollution, dams and bridges. Breeding of hilsa is under threat.
A study by the Bangladesh Fisheries Research Institute has also mentioned the decline in the migration of hilsa in the river and various threats to its existence. It specifically mentions the crisis caused by climate change, infrastructure construction on rivers and the effects of river pollution-encroachment. As a result of climate change, the temperature of the earth is constantly increasing. Due to the infrastructure, silt is accumulating in the river water, causing submergence, the turbidity of the water is increasing. This is hindering the movement of hilsa from the sea to the river. Again, due to the increase in water temperature, the breeding and eating habits of hilsa are under threat. As the sea level rises, salinity is increasing and it is spreading into fresh water as well. Inundation of coastal areas, alteration of breeding and nursery areas are also threats.